As rising populism threatens freedom of expression, designers can no longer look away. Yohji Yamamoto rages, with clothes scorched by the sun. Issey Miyake celebrates the power of shadow. Jeanne Friot indicts the politicians. The IFM urges its students to push beyond limits. KML, the Saudi-born label, dismantles Western dress codes. And all of them are asking the same question: what does fashion propose for a livable future?